čtvrtek 24. prosince 2009

Merry Christmas!


Today we have the Christmas eve, but my second suitcase hasnt arrived yet, so symbolically I can still consider myself, or at least my belongings travelling.

At least here in Czech Republic we celebrate today, and get the presents today, too. There is some snow outside, but not much, but the temperatures are quite low, and I have an imported cold. Its going to be rather small, just closest family.

Hopefully the suitcase arrives so that I will be able to transport some presents from within it under the Christmas tree.

I wish anyone who reads Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

úterý 22. prosince 2009

home again

After long and painful flight I have landed in Prague (not so my suitcase) and am here in my motherland again. I didnt have time to think about it muc h yet but I guess its going to be a bit weird till I get used to it again...

pondělí 21. prosince 2009

Last entry

So this will be probably my very last entry written from Colombian land!

I will miss this country. Everything ended up ok. Only I dontr understand how did I manage to get cold in this hot weather:) So I will import it to snow covered Czech Republic.

And, Ive met here some Czechs, so we already have a small national enclave. How nice.


BTW here we came with a very new Airbus with lots of fancy stuff like USB ports next to the screen. However, the script was all over running, first I thought theyre gonna show Matrix, then I realized that its Linux trying to boot in vain...

sobota 19. prosince 2009

Back in Cartagena - saturday

And so I am in Cartagena again...

The bus from Medellin left me here 10:15 in the morning. Another hour to get downtown. Perhaps the last ride down avenida Pedro Heredia.

Last night the bus dropped me off next to the best mall of Medellin, Mayorca, right in front of Crepes - I had to get my favorite icecream.

Today I even get to stay at the house where Ive always stayed... everything as it used to be... or so it seems. But, the adventure will soon be over.

čtvrtek 17. prosince 2009

Last border

Today, 17th of December, Ive crossed the last border I ll have to cross till I cross the border to Czech Republic.

I am in Colombia again, in two thirds of long and wearisome journey back up north. I shall arrive to Cartagena on saturday if everything goes fine...

pondělí 14. prosince 2009

Cuzco

Today, monday, I spend most of the day in Cuzco.

I have again run into a guy I had first met in Copacabana, on a trip to Isla del Sol, then again at Machu Picchu, and finally today on Plaza de Armas... results we are taking the same bus to Lima tonight. He is a lawyer from Brussels, good contact! Dont mess with me anymore!!:D

Anyways, its weird, one always meets people somehow related to him, like on Isla del Sol, this girl from India, I told her I got interested in Japan, and she replied she studies Japanese - with Michel Thomas! - the program that taught me Spanish. And, more than that, she lived in Colombia for two years, first year on an internship with AIESEC.

Or the guy from Switzerland, whom Ive asked to take me a pocture, and he turned out to be a graduated gardener and working in that field (Ive worked for this gardening company last spring: )

Anyways, we went with this Sebastian from Brussels to the terminal, and bought trip to lima with a company that shipped me to Tacna - CIAL - I was quite happy with them. And, Cuzco - Lima is a reckoned tourist heavy route - so its bound to be heavy in "I rob tourists" persons too.

Its at five so I still had some time to walk around, take pictures. I didnt take many as my screen doesnt work at the moment. But, it made it through Machu Picchu! What more can I ask. Besides, it can revive again, as it did after Valparaiso. Besides, I think I might be able to fix it myself home.

Again, this walk pointed out the sharp difference between touristy and not-touristy places. On one square, people loterally force you to buy garbage and dustcatchers for high prices. You cant have any mercy with these people - Its sad but true - because they are seasoned in exploiting slightest trace of interest, moral weakness and soft hard. Again I have to recall lessons from Cartagena: totally ignore, from, be cold and even rude - otherwise you wont escape.

Which really makes me think again how much I do not like the tourist places. What a false, stupid world... What do you learn about the country? Almost nothing. They just exploit your illusions about the country and offer you overpriced crap with the pretense that it has whatsoever strong link with what the country is really like.

But, make a turn, and after a street full of tourist restaurants (empty) offering menu for 15 soles (5USD), and You ll find a local "comedor" with menu for 3 soles, besides full of locals, which means that what they ll give you didnt sit there for two weeks. And you see local workers and families eat with you. And they are polite and greet, and you greet, and you wish each other "bon apetit" and noone tryes to make money of noone, and noone hangs in your face how poor or need they are - even if they might be - but hey - people who DO NOT LIVE FROM TOURISM seem to preserve their dignity.

And, off the main area I just bought two GOOD books in Spanish from a second hand store 3 soles (1USD) each. Thats all, going to catch the bus...

The way home...

And now, the only thing awaiting me is the way home.

Yesterday, for being so tired, we stayed in Cuzco overnight. Today I have to find a bus to Lima / Tumbes.

I fell much like the men of Ulysses: the batle was already fought, but there is still the long, long way home...

MACHU PICCHU


Yesterday, sunday the 13th of December we ascended this famous site.

Maybe I didn't mention clearly, that as we took the hitch from Santa Maria, we mingled with this group, who had a guide, who also cut a deal for us. We paid 100 soles (cca USD 35) and got a room, dinner, breakfast, entrance to Machu Picchu site (discounted based on my ancient ISIC, even though first they thought it was false, then they probably realized that if I wanted a false one I wouldn't get something so obscure... btw. Peru is obviously one of the countries where ISIC and the like are really usefull - this was a 50% discount) and a guided walk on the site for 2 hours. Good deal.

So the whole group planned very early morning ascent, to be able to visit the second site there - Wayna Picchu- where to only 400 persons daily are allowed. That required our waking up at 4.

So we started of the hostel at 4:15 roughly, ascending the high mountain of Machu Picchu on foot. It was still dark when we started, and a foggy dawn came during our ascent. It is some 1600 steps to get there. I counted them to keep my morals high, and got to 1574, but I wasn't accurate at the bottom:) Counting allowed me to make a short break after each 50 steps to catch my breath, and a longer one at 800 and 1200.

Finally, we got to the entrance area (with hotel and buses:) at around 6 (looks very modern there). There we joined the cue for entrance and met our guide, who luckily have figured out my student discount in the meantime as mentioned.

Following was the guided tour to the very Machu Picchu site with our guide. I will shortly recall what Ive remembered:

Machu Picchu isn't the true name of the settlement, which is unknown, because the Quechuas used nods instead of written letters to conserve information, a way that wasn't fully decrypted untill today. Machu Picchu means "Old Mountain" and is the name of the mountain where the settlement is located.

INKAs were kings of the Quechua nation, and there were just like 14 of them. (first according to the tradition - Manko Kapak - comes from the Isla del Sol on Titicaca) Now there are still some Quechuas living in nearby town Quillabamba. Quechuas are supposed to live very long, our guide claimes that the world's oldest man with 130 years is Quechua and that some used to live up to 150 years or more. (if they climbed up the steps every now and then, no wonder they were in excellent condition:) Our guide also claims to be of Quechua descvent which might well be true, and he was a nice guy, anyways:) Principal sites of the Quechuas were three - Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Quillabamba. Quechuas fled to the mountaintops after the Spanish conquested Cuzco, destroying all paths and bridges not to be found. Later they again escaped from Machu Picchu to Wayna Picchu in much the same manner.

Machu Picchu was a place for noble people, other Quechuas from other provinces and dialects came here to receive schooling and training. Importand religious and prestigious affairs concentrated on the calendar based on observing solar solstices and progress of the suns path troughout the year. Then the religion had something called "triada andina" where there were three worlds much like in christianity: the world above, whose deity is Condor, the lived world where people are, whose deity was Puma, and the world below, underworld, where the deity was a serpent.

The whole site was able to support cca 500 persons with on-site agriculture.

---
After that we took off to go to Wayna Picchu, which presents other ascent of 1200 steps. It is much worth doing for the view and the location, even higher and even more magnificent. Unfortunatelly I had also some digestion problems, which were messing up my concentration. I had to resolve it in the intentions of the nice czech slogan "seru-v-peru". When we finally got to the top - the route sometimes could be classified as no. 1 difficulty level in rockclimbing scales - the wonderfull view was our compensation.

This site, much smaller, is on a top of even less accessible mountain, all the mountains here are very steep, almost vertical-faced, which makes them tought to ascend. This one - Wayna Picchu - Young Mountain - is even several hundred meters above Machu Picchu with a beautiful, practically 360 degree view from the top.

After reaching the top I found a sofa-like shaped rock at the very top, where I had spent a very happy hour and something. I had to think about an old song by "Buty", one of he first to make me dream of visiting exotic places, which by then I thought was probably just a dream. Now at that very moment I was moved by my dream coming true. Didn't really plan it, it somehow just happened, perhaps because I was attracted to the same thing again and again, even if in different times and contexts.

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---

After all that, the descent, again on foot (so we did 2800 steps up and 2800 steps down) and buying a trainticket to Cuzco. We were all so tired we couldn't even think

sobota 12. prosince 2009

and who has their photos of buses published?:)

http://galerie-autobusu.cz/Omega~Platinum~~1/

Cuzco - Aquas Calientes (foreplay to Machu Pikchu)

So night bus arrived to Cuzco at 5 but the driver left us crashing in till six. One of the girls wanted to get to Machu the same way I wanted to try - so we arranged to travel together.

That way is the cheapest way, as far as I know, to get to Aquas Calientes, from where one can hike up to Machu. Its described in guidebook but not so well, but I had that confirmed a night before when I ate trout for dinner in Copacabana by a Canadian traveller.

Now I am sitting in net cafe in Aquas Calientes, so I can confirm it worked out, for cca 33 soles, which equals to 10 USD compared to at least 31 USD for the train. The downside is the time, but, getting to Aquas Calientes in the evening allowes one to hike to Machu early in the morning, which is ideal - whereas the first train arrives at 11.

The route is the following: get to bus terminal to Santa Maria and take bus to Santa MAria (takes cca 6 hrs), from St, Maria to St. Teresa and then "Hydroelectrica" - normally there are taxis and collectivos, we found a tour bus which took us all the way to the electric plant and we also joined the group for meals and entrance as it is nice and economic - good deal! Last part of the route consists of following railroad tracks to Aquas Calientes for some 10kms. (can take train too - more expensive).

I'd say that it is possible to hike from St. Maria, it all takes like 6 hrs, but the route is very scenic, with deep walleys and impressive steep mountains, waterfalls etc. What we covered with the tourbus was again much like the old videogames - abyss one one curb, rock on the other. Two cars difficult to pass.

The hike down railroad tracks is scenic too, we started after four so we finished by dark, there were five of us, three Brazilians, the Mexican girl and me. We met two trains and crossed twqo tunnels, I couldn't help but to think about czech tramps and Wabi Danek in particular:)

tomorrow we start after FOUR in the morning... So I wonder how this Machu Picchu is going to be, but the landscape is certainly promissing!

Copacabana II

Well well altitude really does stuff to you. Constant slight headache and one becomes really irritable:)

Friday - I had to leave bybus at 10AM, but because of road blockade it was cancelled. So I rescheduled for a cheaper bus at 6:30, and spent the difference on food...

I had an extra day in Copacabana really, thus. Lady in the travel service was very helpful, I spent like an hour there refixing my camera, and she gave me some tips what to see.

I went to cathedral, which is probably one of the most bombastic churches Ive ever seen. I took tons of pictures because the "no picture" sign was by the exit so I didnt see it untilk I was done.

Then I went to see local two hills with cavalries. On first there were some slacking youngsters probably cutting school so I turned it back. The other though was very cool - steep rock some 50 metersa above the lake level, with stations of cross and wonderfull view of both the town and the lake. In the end Ive spent some 4 hours there.

I had to think that carrying cross up this hill in this altitude would be very tough even for Jesus himself. I really think Golgota is much closer to sea level! Me too, I had to stop almost every 20 meters, to catch my breath.

Later, on the night bus to Cuzco Ive met some friendly travelñlers so the time passed fine.

čtvrtek 10. prosince 2009

Bolivia

They say you always forget the bad stuff. So this is to remembre.

Country us nice. People almost only indians. Altitude is tough. La Paz is kind of cool.

But Ive come to Titicaca, and its a paradise of tourist hassle!
Yes, the place is nice. But having always to watch so that you aren't ripped off doesn't make it any better.

Example: all the internet cafes at the main street have a fuckung cartel - so they all charge invariably 4 - 5 times more then in downtown La Paz. And - there is a cyber cafe "only for playing games online" which nevertheless charges the usual price! But off course, they won't let you go online.

Aha. So westerners are racists, homophobic people? Let me tell you, that in these tourist centres you learn something about prejudice! I bet you some people here prercieve foreigners like some kind of outer space aliens with fat purses, and not like human beings.

pondělí 7. prosince 2009

Monday: Vale a Valpo

Well, all things come to an end... and so did my stay in Valparaiso.

Quizas mejor así... I still have things to explore there. But, I've got my souvenirs, so the connection shall not perish.

I am now in Santiago again... I've just had a "delicious" lunch - a hot dog - the most typical street snack here and one of the few affordables. They put avocado on it whioch is not appreciated, but I've asked it without.

And I've bought a ticket to Arica. 27000 - that is like 54USD, compared to 35000 directly from Valpo, even with connection for 2500 I've still saved 10USD - can be two nights in hostel in Bolivia. I've bought it with a small company and the deal includes all meals... I'm curious:) - I packed some apples and cookies, just in case. Small companies are not a problem in Chile, as both roads and buses have a very good standard.

And since my bus leaves in 40 minutes, I have time that can't be spent better then by crashing in an internet café and posting some reflections... better passtime than nosepicking.


--- some reflections about Chile ---

from all the countries I've visited, Chile is strikingly different. It has much more of a conection to Europe. It always seems to be connected to presidents, they had some with french and german names - and there you go, the country feels like some european country (on contrary Peru, with it's Fujimori, has a clear Asian influence - virtually all the busetas in Lima are Japanese or Corean! and the city's atmosphere evokes busy Asian metropoles as I imagine them most of what I've seen...).
One of the first things that strikes is the soundscape. From Colombia till Chile you are constantly exposed to blasting local music... champeta, salsa, cumbia, reggaeton, name it, got it... for unsuspecting foreigner that can bring about a small cultural shock. But cross the border to Chile and boom: you are in Euro-soundscape: I have heard few songs in spanish: radios play european and american music. And have good taste! Radio Activa in Santiago plays 90's dancemusic, even some good forgotten gigs and by no means just commerce. Radio Equis, which was on in our hostel, could double as good standard independent european radio... something like Prague's Radio 1 in its beginnings. Indie rock from the eighties on prevails, including uncommercial thiongs like The Clash, "there she goes" by the LAS - a big '91 hit plays at least two times a day... Also there is affinity for groups like The Cure or The Police and many others. To illustrate that... a 14 years old kid asked me if I could translate a song from English... I expected some rap that I would hardly understand or some local artist trying to rhyme in English. But, surprisingly, after few first reefs I recognized it as "Roxanne" by The Police - the same stuff I digged at 16... that surprised me..
Other thing you notice is the "white" racial mix here. So far I had seen like 3 or 4 black people, and I suspect at least half of that were tourists! Its an opposite of the Carribean. Even when we visited the school of music and its concert - we saw them performing some heavily tribal music... 20 drummers and a singer ... african style, you know. AND NOT ONE SINGLE MUSICIAN OF AFRICAN DESCENT! and I swear it would sound much better if they had some, cause we've seen a concert like this in Cartagena and blacks just know how to do it and have absolutely no restraints in neither singing no rhythmic... where as this assembly couldn't help but sound like a slightly unsure and backheld white intellectual kids, you know...


---
Now a reflection about Valparaiso... Why is it such a great city for me?
Well obviously when we speak about Prague, we would say that it's magic dwell's near the river, in the old, picturesque, narrow streets of Old Town and Lesser Town, perhaps Kampa, Lesser Town and New World areas with their geographical specifics being the most romantic part for most people.

Clearly, the flat, modern, broad avenue crossed areas may be good to live in, but they "don't have it" and aren't by far so exciting.

Now how much time may we spend covering these areas?
In Valparaiso, I have spent roaming like 12 hours in very appealing places, with romantic houses, surprising views, dramatic architecture etc., and I haven't been able to cover all, maybe a third part! That's because "most" of the city is spread over those 40+ hills or ridges, that run from the mountain range to the Pacific, being again divided by valleys and canyons. The biggest building activity belongs to the era of 19th century and then the big reconstruction of the city after the 1906 earthquake. That means that great most of this area is covered by architecture in between 100 and 70 years old, and largely conserved in original state - obviously if we judge lifespan of these buildings, quite a few are arriving to the end of it just about now, but there wasn't any massive reconstruction or assanation yet. And won't be, at least for the most central parts, as they were proclaimed the UNESCO patrimonial site.

Then, we have a contrast in "the plan", the narrow strip between the coastline and the foot of the hills... This is a cramped business area with up to 5 storeys high old impressive buildings, mostly banks and the like, quite bombastic often, and then near to the port, in the worn streets there are these small slightly dingy taverns with old mariners... a whole dark and dingy area - but one can always raise above it to the full sunlight and fresh air of the cerros by an ascensor...

so much for it, gotta go.

neděle 6. prosince 2009

Sunday - Valparaisos flea market and bay cruise

Todey we've started our day by a visit to flea market that culminates (to our luck) much later than in either EU or Australia. Iwas able to purchase one of the door knobs as a souvenir, to my great satisfaction.

Then we had small lunch in one of the more local restaurants near the port called Milan. It evokes 3rd category Czech restaurant but the service is much better, there is different plate for each meal etc. ... the prices higher, too.

After that we took a cruise around the bay, to see sea lions and take some pictures.

BTW I got lucky in my hostel, which Ive grown to love (http://www.casaventura.cl/). There was no availibility, so Iwas supposed to move, but around lunch when I was there to pick up my stuff, someone called to cancel, so I could stay:) It has spacey rooms with only 4 beds max, and high ceilings, great breakfasts and is run by a german - chilean couple, the guy followed his girlfriend here from Germany... there are even some old-school german table games available:)

just for fun... sample of perurail contract

following is extract from perurail users agreement...

"18. When operational or technical reasons obligate PERURAIL to relocate the clients onto a different service or train frequency, PERURAIL will try its best to contact the client and make the necessary arrangements wherever and whenever possible. If it is an Act of God, PERURAIL will not be liable but shall try within its limits to make the necessary arrangements.

23. Departure times are subject to change because of weather conditions, technical reasons, route conditions or acts of god. " (bold mine)

I really like that:) It's an act of god! I hope god will be OK with my evt. visit to Machu Pikchu!

U Pavla Nerudovic

Tak jsem byl vcera u Pavla Nerudu doma.. no hezky to tam ma, jen co je pravda.

On totiz Pavel mel moc rad vypraveni sveho duchovniho dedecka Jana Nerudy, z Male Strany (wikipedia rika: Neruda's pen name was derived from Czech writer and poet Jan Neruda - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pablo_Neruda).

Takze proste hledal neco podobneho, nejake kopce, aby tam byla voda, malebne ulicky... a proto se nastehoval do Valparaisa:)) No dotahl to daleko, Pavel, az na Nobelovu cenu. Ale zase nepatril mezi Majovce. Ani nesklatil Karolinu Svetlou. I kdyz se zda, ze zen mel take dost.

Podle mne to byl takovy trochu Chilsky Nezval - svym zivotnim stylem. Asi by si rozumel i s poetisty, ten jeho dum by se jim urcite libil, hesla otevrit okna svetu dokoran se drzi dostatecne...

Update friday night

Just an short report on friday evening.

We visited informal concert in nearby escuela de bellas artes - music academy. Then we met a pianist there (Pedro) who played a short recital just for us. Nice.

Then I went to the hostel, planning a little bit, figuring things out.

After I met up with my roommates in Irish Pub downtown (at 11). The pub owner (Nigel) is an Irish IT guy who fell in love here while travelling so he started the bar to make living. (Irlandes bar) The bar is very nice and has lots of types of beers and is quite busy. We sat there with my roommates of whom one is Irish and other guy lived in Ireland for a year, and Nigel, for some two hours, my first regular "pub" experience after a long long time, as in carribean it is almost unknown.

A walk - saturday

Yesterday Ive spent first half day working out my next plans and financial situation.

Then I got lucky, because the sun appeared, and I went a long walk from our cerro to cerro Belavista, by avenida Alemania, making lots of pictures.

Which brings me to other comparisons: Adolf Born could come paint here. Thats exactly his kind of houses.

Early 20th century, eclectic historism, slightly overdecorated at times, but with the wear very romantic and having lots of fantastic, nicely preserved detailes (esp. Cerros Concepcion and Alegre), especially around doorways and windows.

Ive visited former prison, that has become an art center - its basically ruins of a prison (it worked till 200, though) covered with graffiti and street-art deco. Interesting atmosphere.

Then Ive visited Pablo Nerudas (www.fundacionneruda.org) house... first I thought its not going to be worth iyt but it was. The house is interesting, Neruda designed it himself with lots of invention, aiming on stimulating space where you can overlook the whole harbour from almost all rooms. And, he was a passionate curriosities collector, reusing these detailes for decoration, like virtrages, door handles, artistic woodcarvings etc., which makes us a kind of kindered spirits. And there is exposition and info about Valpo itself, too, in the visitor center (www.senderobicentenario.cl).

And in the night, we collectively went to eat out in a nice seafood restaurant. Good day.

pátek 4. prosince 2009

And another on Valparaiso - friday

Why is it such a slow day again?

Well, its also not a very nice weather today. Kind of foggy. I also have to resolve my finance for next couple of weeks today - they have holiday till monday. And therefor I might need to leave sunday afternoon as later many people will be drunk etc.

So I am slowly copying all my pictures... and reading newspaper... and maybe Ill just take the trolley busride. Its not so good for taking pictures at the cerros anyways, too grey, It would not look good. Too much Zizkov-like.

I can then make it tomorow since the early morning... unfortunatelly South America is not the place for walks with the camera in the evenings.

And, when speaking about Zizkov-like, so our room in the hostel feels just like Vinohrady! High ceilings, high windows, early 20th century architecture, yellow sodium street lights coming through the window and cars roaming down stone paved street, thus emitting that characteristic sound of Slezska / Kolinska streets...

And by the way, as for architects interest, the houses here are built on walled substructures, but the rest is quite often half-timbered or framed structure, covered by wood or corrugated iron. Even so, the houses are strikingly alike with Vinohrady and Zizkov architecture in their forms! The materials are only revealed to the closer look...

---

and, on reading this: http://www.novinky.cz/domaci/186173-opencard-praze-nic-nevydela-prijmy-jdou-podle-auditu-soukrome-firme.html; about Prague OPENCARD, I feel once again ASHAMED by my city and country! I have just used similar Chilean card recently in Santiago... I tried to google if there was a similar scandal - I could not find anything. BANANA REPUBLIC in the heart of Europe. SOCIAL CLEANING ON THOSE M************!

a slow day... which makes me reflect about technology

So this day seems to be just bound to be slow.

I decided to backup my photos, right away in the morning on first attempt I've found the size is already too much for my 2 empty CDs. Besides, just to copy them to the computers harddrive takes more then an hour. Then, burning just two CDs would be almost an hour again (I don't burn on highspeeds unless I really trust both the burner and the media - and that's not the case of internet cafés and cheap CDs. Its quite upsetting to have to throw the disk away after 15 minutes of burning!).

And I don't want to carry the camera around without the pictures backed up.

So, after opulent breakfast - a great advantage of my hostel and a reason why I am staying more nights - I went downtown to shop for an USB. I've actually found quite a nice one in discount, but still just the copying will take more than an hour. I've bought SONY in the end... for in my experience, their products are very durable. The discman I've bought in 2003 in the US still runs strong, and although it has some clear engineering mistakes, it did never break down. And not to speak about its brother - one of the very first discmans ever - which I've bought in 2005 from a thriftstore in Bozeman, Montana, for 75 cents (!) - and it worked, and still works, and it even plays home-burned CDs even though that technology, as I suspect, wasn't diffused by the time of its release to the market.

So I put my trust into the brand, and I hope, that the pendrive will be here for a few years, and not break down like most others did (only the very first I had, 256MB one, still works, as the producers as I suspect make only the first editions properly to position them on the market, whereas later its all about cutting costs - and lifespan...). And each and every time it was a mechanical failure at the connector - a lot of strain occurs there, but engineeres could easily forsee that, couldn't they?

But thats not the priority for affordable products to avoid these setbacks these days.

My camera - the same story - as for the LCD display the problem that occured clearly stems from faulty engineering. And could be fixed easily. In the end, I've semi-fixed it with no proper technology! Because, what happened is that the two-line flat cable that provides power for the light emitting background of the LCD - which makes it readable - was bent over to make it make a right-angle turn - and offcourse, being it such a tiny cable, it eventually broke there!

And even though the problem would be fixed by fixing that cable, or changing it, where the cable can't cost more than a dollar, the "authorized service" generously offered change of the whole LCD for price surpassing the one of a whole new camera (probably here for input of the skilled work, which consists of taking the camera apart with a screwdriver and releasing the cables from their connectors - which I admit I would not know how to do, but it can't be too complicated).

And that is properly annoying, let me tell you! Especially here in South America, where so many people will probably never be able to have any camera at all, and here a good camera almost goes to waste, where it technically could be fixed for some 5 $ - properly! Where as, as I've said, I've semi-fixed it using a razorblade, a lighter and a scotch tape and some 1,5 hours of time. The difference between 5 and 150 $ isn't a decisive barrier for me perhaps, but it IS for millions of people in the world!

And that once again proves what Marx said, that "market value" and "utility value" are two entirely distinct things! (and that can be used to your advantage or disadvantage:)

If all the stuff that is in the back of your drawers, along perhaps with description of what happened, was collected and then sent to less developped countries, then fixed or sorted out for recycling... I think you could provide the community with some cheap stuff with good utility value, and guys fixing it - why not kids who are being trained for electricla engineering carreers? - could learn some valuable lessons like that! Not only about fixing stuff, but about building it as well, as these failures usually reveal some typical weak spots.

čtvrtek 3. prosince 2009

Oh, and the camera

I forgot to write that, but I think there must be some kind of magic, because sometimes it quite sucks, and the display wouldn't work, but so far ALWAYS when
there really was something interesting for me the camera PUT ITSELF TOGETHER
and worked nonstop! That apply for the train museum in Tacna and now for the
first day in Valparaiso. As if things had soul...

And I mean there is a conection. Ive done surgery to my camera to resuscitate it!:)

Reflexion on Valpo I

Actually, I have forgotten to write it in my last entry, so...

How does Valparaiso appear to me?
Well I have heard it being compared with Venice. And perhaps, there is something to it. A glorious port with glory already bit faded.

But I'd like to make a different comparison. Its called "cultural capital of Chile"; the sea is preeminent; the houses are incredibly placed over steep hills, and the culture really sprouts everywhere, in the afternoon upon returning to the hostel I've heard a band rehearsal, the graffitti often mentions leftism, drugs, sometimes love. So I would compare it to San Francisco.

I'd even probably prefere it to San Francisco, as a place, because its easy to navigate on foot and the lack of finance conserved houses in original state and romantic disrepair...

From that point of view, it could be compared to Zizkov as well, few spots, few run down houses do evoke that feeling. But, Zizkov, unlike San Francisco, doesn't have Pacific ocean, does it?:)

---

And, I said first half an hour ever I spent trying to befriend a cat. So cats are another eminent thing here. I see cats here more often then in other Southamerican places I've been to. They sleep in the doors. In the widows. On the sidewalk. And in the bus terminal. You'll meet them casually strolling down the street on their own business, much like yourself. Yes, the cats.

Valparaiso - first walkaround - thursday

So Ive just come back from my first walk.

I have to say I was enchanted. And I have seen like an estimated fourth part of the area, that is supposed to be interesting! Afterall, I've visited just one of the cerros, and the downtown below in one direction from my hostel. Ultimatelly, it was the durability of my camera's batery that gave the no-go.

Valparaiso keeps its promise to be one of the most fotogenic places I've ever seen!
On the cerros, there are worthy views on almost every step. The interesting things are: architecture and details, urban landscape and views, rich street art culture (!!) ...

I went through the old city center, the main square etc. to the Cerro artileria, where, after ascend on foot, I've visited the Naval museum, and killed my battery there.

Even though I can hardly claim to be that much of a sailor, these things call my attention, for one thing the museum is very well done (the way the exhibition is presented and arranged), for second - one instantly realizes the navy's importance for the state of Chile (shouldn't be surprising taking into account length of the coastline:) - even it seems that their first ever president was previously an admiral.

So lots of pride are behind the navy and its museum, too. Besides many artefact like old decorated weapons etc., there were lots of scale models of old sailboats of different kinds, paintings, maps, and last but not least a very interesting exhibition about Cape Horn (Vojta would enjoy it) (I took photos).

So, now I am home, letting my camera recharge, and probably will go out to eat something... I still have a lots of things to do here: tour downtown in one of the old trolleys, visit most other cerros, visit neighbouring Viña del Mar... So I'll keep myself busy for some time:)

finally - Valparaiso!

So I had seen the center of Santiago - it's pretty pretty - and bit bombastic... the governmental buildings I can easily imagine Pinochet marching there:) But nice, safe, huge, modern, lots of facilities, great shopping malls - in the old center, with small private shops, bit like Barcelona... one aisle full of shops with zippo's and smoker's apparel, for instance. Too bad they don't have those cute Camel add zippo's anymore.. I¿d buy it as a souvenir.

And then, already quite tire, I have to confess, I went on the bus to Valparaiso. It was around 4PM.

I have to say I was even quite nervous, so close to my dreamed goal, my destination. Will it be worth it?

The last one hour on the bus, again, highway, gas stations with Mc Donald, industry parks, cute little houses... parks... could have been Austria. Modern cars. And one LIAZ truck! The truck drivers were right, they are there!


---

Then Valpo. I spend half an hour at the terminal finding about other connections, getting myself together. Trying to befriend a very suspicious little kitten, who'd runaway even after being givewn part of my Chinese roll.

Then stroll over whole downtown Valparaiso to reach the cerro - hill - where my housing is. The downtown did npot seem as magic... besides having this Hrabalian Liben like charm of a run down port town. And Trolley buses from 40's.

But, the cerros are amazing. Its like a giant Vrbice spread over many and many steep hills, the way the houses are located and accessed is amazing, and the run-down 19th century charms go on and on. Every step worth taking pictures. One feels like Mirek Dusin and the gang in Stinadla, except for the magnificent view of the Pacific port, with large and small crafts, and the views of the rest of the city every now and then.

Just exploring all of that will require like two days I think. So, its around noon, I have slept well, the breakfast is more than generous, and it will be the time to explore! More news later...

středa 2. prosince 2009

Santiago - wednesday

So I got here according to the plan and I will continue to Valparaiso in the afternoon.

Chile has quite an european vibe indeed. Euroamerican music everywhere. And Santiago does look like Austria... or Spain. Nice. I am now going to see downtown and the cannon make boom.

pondělí 30. listopadu 2009

Arica

So I am in Arica...
I took the train in the end... to be honest it wasnt so cool as the museum,
but at least it was chaep and easy. I didnt have anyone to cross the border with,
and I didnt feel like facing all the bargaining and hussle alone.

But Arica had only one hostel I could find online, and that prooved to raise prices
considerably, so I am taking a bus to next city overnight instead, which is more
or less the same price.

Even though at first sight, when we were crossing the border, Chile looked like
Austria compared to Peru, the center an terminal are quite sketchy. So Ill move on,
no reason to fall behind my schedule. And it IS more expensive here.

Mpre news from Angofasta perhaps, or, If I get a good connection, from Santiago or
Valpo.

Tacna . monday

Tacna saw us in the morning at around 10 AM.

One good thing about Peru - lots of tourist facilities. So in this smalltown terminal there was a tourist info office (part of i-peru net - the smae Ive used in Lima). So I got map and all the info, left my bag in a storage room and went for a walk.

My destination - besides the center - was a local Railway Museum. Well I bravely claimed I am a student and then enmtered for 2 soles - less then 1USD. The guy didn't check. The museum only has two rooms, but they basically don't care about what and where you do, and let you explore their whole junkyard with lots of old trains, vehicles and weird machines. I was fascinated and spent there a very relaxing 2 hours. Some of the machines are Brittish from 19th century... And its all in these rundown deserted shops, where they nevertheless still take care of some ocassional maintenance. Even the artist Skala would be happy there, and - what a coincidence - my camera this time worked nonstop for the whole two hours - so I should have some good pictures.

I am currently considering the option to actually cross the border by this romantic train - its very convenient as the migration officers come on board, and then perhaps stay one night in Arica and take another connection in the morning.

I really like these little town, they are a lot less stressful, also quite economic. Only here I had the oportunity to try local specialty - ceviche - which is a meal prepared from raw fish. You should eat it before 3PM cause those are the morning fish. We are at the shore and I had it at 1 PM, in quite a reputable restaurant, where lots of local had it too. And it was an entree - a part of a menu - which alltogether cost less then 2 $ - couldn't get it so cheap in Lima I think.

transfer to Tacna - monday

The bus ride from Lima involved some curious passages, especially in the night. I forgot to mention that I had again first floor seat in the first row, so view better then the busdrivers.

Around midnight we were going through a sequence of sharp curves in the mountains, that readilly illustrated why Peru's roads are deemed dangerous. Two lanes, rock on one side, abyss on the other - much like the old school Acolade Test Drive game. No space for mistakes. Leave the curb and gameover succeeds.

And then, in that good old game you drove like a swift sports car... now imagen this 20+ tons mastodont, 5 meters high... And there were slow trucks. And sometimes rocks fallen on the roads surface - up to the size of a decent fridge - no kidding.

Then in the morning (and I was thus glad that I took a reputable company this time) another lengthy passage through dessert. Peruvian shore is all dessert, so it seems.

Lima III - sunday

Sunday was a bit hectic. After getting myself together in the morning, I had to call some bus companies to see when I could go to Tacna.

I found one viable option but wasnt able to reach like a half of the carriers. So Ive decided to go to the terminals area and ask personally and evt bargain. Alas, everything is far in Lima, so at 1 PM I was still stuck with only one safe option, which was leaving at 2 PM.

Ive made impossible happen, took the bus, run to the hostel, checked out, took a taxi, and made it to - another- place where the bus was leaving from at 2:00 PM straight. I got a seat and boarded right on.

This time it was 80 soles against 50 from Tumbes, but, the bus was way better. First time since Colombia I have used my blanket and waem clothes - there was airconditioning! The bus was Volvo / Busscar doubledecker, really nice, leather seats, TV, personal lights, cup holders, curtains, tainted windows and god knows what else. They did not take any people from the street... they did not let in not even the snack vendors, which was a pitty, as I didnt have time to eat properly and was hungry. But, in the end they even gave us a little dinner and breakfast! And when they'd put the last Fast and Furious sequel on, I couldn't have been happier.

Lima II

Well so my first day in Lima was ended by a walk downtown - ints one hour far from the hostel on bus. The center is pretty and looks much like downtown Prague - lots of pedestrian rtraffic only areas, houses repaired.

Lots of shops, fastfoods incl. KFC and Mc, cheap stores for clothes.

I have walked there for some 2 hours, from plaza San Martin to plaza Mayor, then over stone bridge, up to a church where surroundings were getting a bit ugly and it was getting dark too, so Ive turned around.

On my way back O visited museum on Plaza de las Armas (Mayor) where there was big exhibition of urbanistic progress, things theyve improved, things they build etc... The "before" section looked like what Ive expected... kind of tough. But places tyhat still look like that are scarce now, at least in the center.

Then, there was an exhibition of contest of painters under 33 years - free - there was some good stuff so Ive shoved some interest and received catalogue for free.

I then pocked up some food and went home.

sobota 28. listopadu 2009

Lima - a surprise!

So, at the moment I write from my hostel in Miraflores, Lima.

(I kind of follow footsteps of heroes of the book La ciudad y los perros (http://www.hacer.org/pdf/Vargasllosa04.pdf) and "the poet" was from Miraflores... its a good neighbourhood, so thats where I am. However, the hostel is only 5 USD / night, and they'd even let you sleep on a mtrace on the floor or on a couch for less (casa del mochillero, miraflores, viz. Lonely Planet).

Once again I was lucky. My transport from Tumbes wasn't what it seemed at the first sight. Marcopolo bus looked pretty from outside but was quite worn inside. No AC, windows hardly possible to open, seats dirty etc. Then, we left the terminal with like 5 ppl on board, only to take much more for a cheaper price down the road, which is kind of upsetting, too. At the beginning I thought I'd have to check my stuff all the time and not sleep, then we took a highschool trip on board, by which the number of trustworthy people quadrupled. So I calmed down and submerged into thinking and reading.

(however two of these kids really had their camera and money stolen)

Travelling really is like a pilgrimage or some kind of religious experience for me, having everything in one small backpack really does not give you much to worry about. Bus rides just force you to think - there's not much to do, and the changing landscape helps... in the end its like tourism on foot in that respect. And packing light and good is just another ritual that makes me feel happy and secure.

The ride was only made more exciting by some Peruvian comedy show on TV (lots of jokes about violence and homosexuality, curiously) and stops at transit bus terminals. On the stops traditionally people crowd in and offer everything from pillows to food... actually quite convenient to get a soda and a sandwich.

The route was through the seashore desert... it looks much like Mexican desert from movies.. like the one where Sarah Connor found refuge in Terminator II. Or maybe "No Country for Old Men". Very poor houses with flat roots. Some public spaces. Election campaign ads painted on houses. Keiko Fujimori - daughter of the former president - runs for the office... her nema everywhere makes you feel like in japanese comix.

Also another thing to confess is that being amongst people with so strong Indian traits made me feel quite uncomfortable at first. (so thats where xenofoby comes from)... gradually I got used to it and also in LIma the mix gets better :)

Before Lima also Ive been lucky again, my neighbor, a little uptight businessman, took charge of my wellbeing in Lima, that is, told me to get of at the outer terminal which is more secure than the central one and then sat me on a bus to Miraflores, where I luckily arrived.

After some snack in the luxurious shopping center I called and visited the hostel. And after that even went downtown. But Ill write about that later. So much for today.

pátek 27. listopadu 2009

And thus I got to Peru

So, I finally reached Peru.

Right now I am sitting in an internet place in Tumbes, quite a bizzare little place.

Yesterday night, I spent last few moments watching quite an interesting movie, whose name I don't know, in the hostel, then I had to run to the bus station without knowing how it ends.

I have to confess that I find it a great achievement when bus companies are concentrated in one big bus terminal (as it is usually in Colombia). It's like a bus ride supermarket, you know, besides you are quarded by security personel, and the only disadvantage is that prices of food are in general higher than on the street - a small price to pay for the comforts.

In Quito I was destined to a small terminal of Esmeraldas transport, a company that takes one to the border for 10 $. Having bought the ticket before I only crossed the few blocks to the station even though it felt a bit adventurous... I got a bit shook by the composition of the people at the station, tehy did not look very trustworthy, so I decided for the first time to check in my backpack and only take necessities on board as to not to have to look after it all night. The bus however was nice and after all people going to my destination looked quite allright too, in the end.

So the night passed - we even got a snack - and a movie - it is a Christian movie called "Fireproof" - I do not know what makes it so popular with busdrivers here, but I swear its the third time they put it on... I could by now retell most parts by myself:( well, perhaps drivers deep inside, as good christians, have some evngelist ambitions? Or maybe it is a redemption quest laid upon them during the holy confession?:)

Morning found me quite o.k. but a bit distracted, so I almost got of the bus too early, the driver wasn't so very helpful but in the end he has dropped us off correctly by the Ecuatorian immigration. By then I acquainted one another of the confused passangers, who turned out to be Peruano living in Ecuador for several years already and being a sales representant for some clothes companies.

He was kind of a happy-go-lucky person - as a good sales representant should be - and somehow he ended up as my guide through this border crossing, which was a very lucky coincidence, as he knew it all very well and so we got together through really fast and sharing the taxis which for sure prevented me being ripped off. So much for my lucky charm, because this border is characterized as one of the sketchiest in all South aMERICA (by one of the guide books) and it indeed does look so.

We parted with my new friend in Tumbes, after he had shown me the street where the bus terminals are, and gave me some tips. Again, no central terminal, fortunatelly I also got tip where to change money safely, so I changed some and went strolling down the avenue with some terminals. The offers are varied, with luxurious buses for as much as 40 USD incl. dinner and breakfast. After asking in cca 5`places I ended up with a ticket that suits my timetable and budget - it cost me some 18 $ and I'll arrive to Lima at 9 AM, so I can conveniently find a hostel. The buses are quite new double deckers by Mercedes and I even got the top-floor seat for the same price.

So now I had lunch - Peru really is cheap, as I had a menu plus my first ever Inca Cola for some 2 $ - and I am waiting for my bus, looking a little bit around Tumbes, which as I had just said has some bizzare features in architecture etc.

So much for Peru so far

čtvrtek 26. listopadu 2009

CArs in Ecuador

Well well, its a good place here to observe some weird stuff.

Obviously, South America was a big export for Japanese producers since many years. So there are some archaic Toyotas, Mazdas, Nissans to observe. Including VERY old Toyota LUV pickups = must be from 60s, as well as some Corrolas and Mazda 1300s. Also, Volkswagen had quitely developped some products here... there is something evolved from the beatle architecture but with a lot more modern body, its called Brasilia I think. Then there is also "Santana" - basically 2nd gen passat slightly facelifted and produced long beyond ceisure from "developped" markets.

Oh, and East Europe products have representation too. Beyond omnipresent Zhiguli I sam some Samaras and even 5=door Niva, which seems quite rare to me. Then, some of them are badged as FIAT so it might be really FIAT products, and there are also "Polski FIATs" - perhaps as FIAT.
SKODA is present, since the FAVORIT/ FORMAN. Seen some Favo pickup. Then there is continual presence until latest models... Ive even seen a RUMSTR.

And buses... the Ecovia / Metrobus system, which is basically the same as Transmillenio in Bogota, uses also Volkswagen, Volvo and Mercedes chassis... bodies are built locally I think even though there are some Busscars which should be Colombian. Other buses are numerous, when it comes to bodies... One think is special - strong presence of HINO chassis. You can see some pretty old trucks here, too. Now HINO is that brand that was the first to break line of TATRA wins in Rallye Paris - Dakar in early nineties. Then for us it was an unknown asian brand... well they must have known it well enough in Ecuador...

MY COKE ADDICTION

What a title!

Wouldn`t you expect something like that from a person that spent 10 months in THAT part of South America?

But actually it refers to a marketing policy that the (in)famous Coca Cola company has for South America... obviously the drink would not be accessible to many people with European pricing. So these smart guys came up with an idea - Coke in glass bottles should be hell cheaper.

And so it is. 350 ml bottle in Colombia is 1000 pesos (cca 50 cents). In Ecuador 300 ml bottle costs 40 centavos (= 40 cents). The trick is that you get coke in bottles in restaurants and these small shops only... you also have to return the bottle... theoretically (Ive seen them pouring it over into a plastic bag for kids XD ). Don`t you look for it in the supermarket, though! there you`ll find plastic bottles with more usual pricing.

With these prices Coker has become my most common street refreshing drink.

Mitad del Mundo

So I´ve visited this place, Mitad del Mundo.

Its a border between southern and northern hemispheres. So finally I am in the southern haha. "Jsem na Jizni polokouli, mne snad z toho rupne v kouli". Well, at least I could do a little bit of the good old "a na sever, a na jih". Hopefully I have a video too.

Then I visited there an etnographical museum, where there were presentations about all the native cultures... and of Galapago`s - now that was interesting: Darwin kind of based his wild theory on samples from there... and they have turtles that live up to 250 years and can have some 250 kilos.

Quito - Ecuador impressions

I have decided to write in English for now, so that my international friends also can follow my experiences during travels...

So yesterday in the afternoon I went walking down from Mariscakl Sucre to Old Quito. Have tio say that Old Quito has interesting atmosphere with a poetic of its own. Especially because the old center is situated on quite a hilly terrain.

Quito has basically two seasons, summer and winter. Now there is winter, with temperatures dropping as low as 10 degrees. Its quite similar to central -european autumn, so once again it brings memories of Prague, Ostrava or Budapest.

Yes, these three cities fit the most as for my experience, because some of the early 20th century buildings in between old center and Marisco fall a bit in disrepair, even though the economic activity goes on strong, so that qives it ther slightly "worn and schmutzig" feel.

There are a lot of parks - some quite nicely maintained, and lots of public transportation, including trolley-bus line through the cnter which I find quite romantic.

I should not forget two weird olfactoric experiences, where I found a houseware shop, which emited smell quite equal to Grandmother Zachova's flat (is it a common olfactoric fenomen for all houseware retailers???:) and there was in turn a shop with sanitary ceramics emitting smell quite similar to that of my other grandmother's flat. Weird indeed.

I shall now recall two notable experiences with local people... somehow I think in both cases it has to do with toxicity, but who cares, right?:)

So the first one - as there are obviously quite a few "children of the street" - while I was waiting for the downtown bus at the terminal asnd eatying some already worn waffles a cca 10 yrs old boy came, looked me down and then addressed me with the jovial "vale" (comrade) and pointed at my waffles. He was dirty and had a bowl with some noodles in his hand. So I gave him a waffle, he thanked, and then I gave him a rest, too. He was black and had this reallyt laidback Will-Smith like attitude.

Then a funny thing happened: once receiving the waffles (which was not a lot of food after all) he again with such a contented and superior look threw his bowl of noodles into garbage right in front of me, accompanying this act with a jovial "eso no sirve" (this doesn't work) then he lifted the waffles, smiled and said "eso sì sirve" (this does work) and walked away in his very laid back, slow manner, then leaning against the front of a nearby bus (which was about to take of which in turn contributed to my impression that the kid is high on something - which wouldn't be surprising when it comes to these "Huckleberry Finn's of the streets".)


The second experience occured later in the afternoon and really made my day. As I stroolled down the Old Center, occasionally taking picture with my quick-fixed cammera, which since needs attention comparable to that provided to manual cameras, I got to visit the most famous squares and churches. Unsuspectingly I also entered plaza San Francisco, where from I intended to turn to St. Domingo and take a trolley home from there.

Well, at the square was a stage and some kind of party going on, with traditional music a bit simillar to vallenato, and a lots of locals dancing. I went closer to the stage to take picture of the band and to see whether the femal singer is pretty or not (not so much). Then I noticed that almost everyone is drinking from the boxes of some kind of vine, nearby couple readily provided me with a sample - which together with my eternal affinity to cheap fruit vines (isn't it, Patatyn?) and these kinds of festivities led to investigation and purchase of a 1 liter box for 1 USD (a bargain, right? :). Well with the box in my hand my popularity sharply raised (and perhaps attractivity for pickpockets, but I am seasoned adventurer haha) so in a moment I found myself dancing with a group of locals- well first offcourse I was a bit suspicious, but later I decided that they are hrmaless, there was a pair dedicated to restauration of old paintings and some local shopkeepers, one of which - a middle aged lady - was quite hitting on me, but was too drunk to be dangerous:). In the end we shared few more boxes and then went for a beer, and I've learned that on that day begun fiestas de Quito which will so continue till December with a lot of program. We had quite a nice chat and then they dropped me off to the trolley home. So, I found myself sucked straight into turmoil of local social life few hours after my arrival... beautiful, isn't it?


This morning I found about cheaper and faster way to get to the border from the hostel keeper, so she grew in my eyes. I went to speak with the agency and to use net, which was inhibited by (here normal) dropout of electricity between 8 and 10 AM.

So now finally I can write, and I am going to check one more agency that advertises direct line to Lima, and I have received a free paper model of the bus, which just had tomake me happy, right?:) then pack, checkout, leave my stuff at the hostel and go to "mitad del mundo" - the park with equatorial line.

středa 25. listopadu 2009

Quito

Tak jsem dojel do Quita, a je zase o cem psat...

Cesta zatim probehla dobre a vicemene podle planu, dokonce jsem sem dorazil o nekolik hodin drive nez jsem myslel.

Samozrejme dve noci po sobe v autobuse neni zadny med... je to nepohodli - zase ale hodne jine nepohodli nez v dzungli; clovek nemusi nic delat ale zato casto nemuze najit pohodlnou pozici kde by si fakt odpocinul.

Z Medellinu do Cali jsem jel s takovym cernouskem ktery mel dva kanarky, tak jsme se spratelili a pomohl mi pak jeste usmlouvat levnejsi cenu na pristi bus... nevyhodou naopak bylo ze tento bus sice vyjel z nadrazi poloprazdny ale po meste "na cerno" nabiral lidi... nejdriv to vypadalo ze vezme hippie parek s tremi detmi na dve zbyvajici mista, nevzal je kvuli psovi:) tak jsem se tesil ze budu mit dvousedadlo--- to ale nevyslo, protoze na pristi zastavce nabrali celou vesnici indianu vcetne olbrimich pytlu a krabic, nekteri dokonce spali i na pristrojove desce.

Hranici jsem pak prekrocil spolu s tremi Nemci, co se hodlali venovat kitesurfingu na pobrazi Ekvadoru. Hranice probehla az necekane hladce.

Jak jsme vjeli do tech And (coz uz bylo predchozi noci) tak se zmenila krajina i lide, taky se ochladilo. Krajina je hornata a kopcovita, trochu jako Alpy. Na lidech je videt, ze vetsina ma indianskeho dedecka nebo babicku:) Lehce pod mrakem, teploty tak kolem patnacti stupnu, rekl bych. Hned to vic evokuje ty nadchazejici Vanoce, ze.

Nemci vystoupili na pul cesty takze do Quita jsem uz dojel sam... srdnate jsem se snazil spat:) protoze tentokrat dvousedadlo k dispozici bylo a tam uz se lze napasovat v embryonalne - horizontalni poloze... no i Indiani na to trochu cumeli, ale ja si rikal muzete si myslet co chcete, hlavne ze ja se muzu vychrapatXD.

V Quitu mezitim probehly zmeny avizovane turistickou priruckou - notoricky podezrely terminal v centru uz nefunguje, a misto nej jsou dva nove, severni a jizni. Jezto to tam vypadalo neskodne tak jsem zavolal do hostelu a rozhodl se jet MHD, anzto za taxik bych dal vic nez za nocleh - navic ve dve odpoledne... Hostel jsem nasel, je to tam trosku studene a pani se zda byt lehce mimozni, ale na jednu noc je mi to jedno,

ted jsem si dal tady nejake mistni jidlo coz je jakasi kukurice s kusy opeceneho veproveho plus nejaka jina prazena lustenina plus se to polije jakousi korenenou omackou s cibuli a dohromady je to prekvapive chutne.

Ted se asi kratce mrknu na centrum dokud je svetlo nacez budu planovat dalsi cestu, patrne asi na zitra.

neděle 22. listopadu 2009

jeste k te demokracii u nas


K te demokracii, ja bych rekl, ze ten problem,
co dnes zijeme, je o krizi hodnot... slusny clovek
vlastne nevi, co jako ma delat. Chybi nejaka
vize, vse co mame z minulosti je tak nejak
zprofanovane, nabozenstvi, nacionalismus,
pokrok... asi hlavne to posledni, kdyz se vsude
mluvi o tom ze cely system speje smerem k
vaznym ekologickym problemum.
Dokud tohle nebylo, dokud lide mohli verit ze
svet "je v poradku" a ubira se spravnym smerem,
tak si myslim stacilo slusne zit a poctive pracovat.

No neslusny clovek, ten hrabe pod sebe v kazde dobe.

Kdysi meli lidi cisare a jezise, pak narod a pokrok,
a dnes mame prd, a globalni rad, ktery se zda
vlastni setrvacnosti spet do pr.....

Kdyz jsme na univerzite delali ten "vyzkum hodnot vysokoskolaku"
tak z toho vyslo, ze vetsina jsou v podstate "hedoniste", tj.
chteji si uzit svuj zivot, mit co nejvic prijemnych a vzrusujicich
prozitku. No, to je to, co "spotrebni kapitalismus" diktuje
jednotlivci. "kdo si neuzil je blbec" Ale ze by to byla nejaka
velka hodnota, nebo ze by to lidi nejak tmelilo o tom bych
si dovolil pochybovat. Ale v hodnotovem vakuu je to vychodisko.
Nebo nekdo to hleda v praci - zas aby to byl
nejak uspokojujici vztah ke svetu, tak ta prace musi byt
nejak prospesna a davat nejaky smysl, coz opet se mi zda
ze v mnoha povolanich chybi...

Ta demokracie jako takova neni sama o sobe zdrojem
nejakeho dobra. Ja jsem si kdysi uvedomil, ze demokracie
je pouze urcita spravni platforma, ktera umoznuje (teoreticky)
relativne spravedlivou soutez nejruznejsich zajmu a hodnot.
Je to proste jen jakasi forma bez obsahu... Obcane ji pak
naplni nejakymi hodnotami... pokud ty hodnoty stoji za h...
tak nemuzeme cekat ze "demokracie" samotna to nejak zachrani.
Pokud napriklad teoreticky by spolu demokraticky soutezili
nacismus a bolsevismus tak, ackoli by to melo demokraticky
ramec, by to nebyl zadny duvod k radosti.
Demokracie je takovy jako "operacni system" pocitace - pokud si do nej
nenainstalujeme zadne uzitecne programy tak takovy
pocitac pouze s operacnim systemem je trochu k nicemu,
ackoli ten operacni system je potreba aby bylo vubec mozne
tam nejake programy nainstalovat.

Ja si myslim, ze to je prave to, co tady lide uplne nepochopili,
a to je taky duvod proc nekteri mluvi o potrebe obcanske spolecnosti.
Ze lidi si mysleli, ze kdyz se ten spravni ramec zmeni ze socialismu
s diktatem jedne strany v pluralitni demokracii a kapitalismus,
ze automaticky se vsichni budou mit dobre... no a ono ne, jenze to
je o tom, ze demokracie pouze proste rika obcane muzete se
sdruzovat a prosazovat sve zajmy - coz taky je namaha a otrava,
kolikrat. No a kdo radsi sedi na gauci a kouka na televizi,
tak pak - v demokracii - v te televizi kouka na to, ze nekdo jiny
taky treba prosazuje svoje zajmy na jeho ukor. A ze tady byli
"aktivni" lidi, to byli, to jsou ti, co si okolo privatizace nejvic
nakradli.

Lidi si proste predstavovali prosperitu a blahobyt automaticky a
pro vsechny, pod pojmem kapitalismus a demokracie,
no a zklamali se... A ani bych se nemohl divit, kdyby nekdo
nekterym tem obrazum, co se lidem malovaly, nadaval do
"lzive kapitalisticke propagandy":) Jeste tak Klaus s tim jeho
utahovanim opasku to videl nejak realisticky... no jo.

Je sranda, ze prave tohle tady za Prvni Republiky bylo pritomno,
protoze prave vselijake organy obcanske spolecnosti, tj. spontanni
sdruzeni obcanu, ty tu byly pritomne, a s dlouhou tradici, Sokol,
Orel, vselijake krajanske a profesni a cechomilske spolky, protoze
to byla skoro jedina moznost jak v ramci monarchie sve zajmy
a ceske zajmy nejak hajit... a to vsechno se do prvorepublikove
demokracie preneslo a ta demokracie z toho tezila, ze, a lidi
v tom proste byli a meli k tomu nejaky skutecny vztah, odvozovali od clenstvi
svou hrdost a tak dale... a tyto
organy obcanske spolecnosti mely v tu chvili (prevratu) uz tradici kolik
desitek let! Vzdyt ti Sokolove v osmactyricatem jeste po
prevratu meli demonstrativni pochod Prahou a rika se, ze mel
Gottwald pekne nadelano v kalhotech.

úterý 17. listopadu 2009

17. Listopad

Jak pekne je sledovat oslavy tohoto svatku odnekud, kam by se clovek pred rokem 89 asi sotva dostal, a pokud, tak uz naporad.

Na druhou stranu si clovek rika proc to porad "neni ono", proc ma clovek pocit, jako by te demokracii neco chybelo? Proc si to clovek vubec mysli. No, pri srovnani s "duchem Prvni Republiky". Tak samozrejme ja jsem v te dobe nezil, ze. Ale co se tak traduje, soude podle kultury, ale i prumyslovych ukazatelu atd, tak ten "duch" byl jiny, silnejsi, zdravejsi a pozitivnejsi...


Podle mne jednak se na tom podilela "vudci osobnost" toho prerodu, jednak "forma prerodu" a jednak "svetova situace".

K tomu prvnimu jsme v situaci Masaryk vs. Havel, kde Masaryk mel onu prakticnost, tvrdost, realismus a pragmatismus, ktere umoznily aby vice a efektivneji narod vedl, i za cenu omezeni realnych demokratickych mechanismu jeho skupinou Hrad. Masaryk se stal take urcitym idolem, s nimz se narod ztotoznoval, ale spis na zpusob Mojzise, ktery narod prakticky "vyvedl" z uzkych, kdezto V. Havel je typem spise mucednika - coz nam sice zviditelnuje urcite moralni maximy, ale pro "prakticky zivot" je mene uzitecne, coz se myslim dobre odrazi v "lidovem" postoji k V. Havlovi.

Za druhe asi prvni transformace byla vice vybojovana, a proto citena jako vice zaslouzila. Zalozeni Cs. Legii a usili prevratit svetove verejne mineni tak, aby mu zalezelo na existenci male a temer nezname zeme, to byl narocny projekt, jehoz legitimita navic byla nezrejma, alespon zbytku sveta, a to vice, nez narok naroda na zmenu vlastniho politickeho rezimu. Naproti tomu Listopad 89, jak to vidim, nam vice "spadl do klina", i si myslim, ze byl leckdo prekvapen ze "to padlo", vice zde zalezelo na tom, ze "to padalo" i vsude okolo... Nebyla tu ta zkusennost valky, kde kazdy cesky rekrut se musel nejak vyporadat s tim, ze bude bojovat za Rakousko... Take se behem 1SV skutecne za vec umiralo... to se tykalo mnoha rodin a je to velmi existencialni vec. V roce 1989 "primo" umrel jen jeden, a jeste se posleze ukazalo, ze to nebyla pravda. V roce 89. velka cast naroda se v podstate ze dne na den rozhodla, ze vzhledem k tomu jak se situace vyviji stoji za to risknout vyjadrit svuj nazor na demonstraci. To ze to vyslo, to bylo trochu jako vyhrat jackpot, a myslim ze analogicky se projevila i urcita nepripravenost ohledne toho jak s takovou vyhrou nalozit, ktera vyustila do bezohledneho oportunismu nekterych a deziluze valne casti naroda, ktera je nejak citi doposud.


A konecne svetova situace byla v roce 1918 podstatne odlisna, "prakticky" to byla doba povalecne rekonstrukce, kdy nutnost ucinne jednat a pricinovat se v dusledku zatlacila do pozadi vselijake "nalady", "teoreticky" svet byl v te fazi modernity, kdy byl pokrok dosud povazovan za slibny vselek, a jak vize rozvrzeni sveta tak vize budoucnosti byly jednoznacnejsi, cernobilejsi a vuci nasi civilizaci optimistictejsi.
Oproti tomu v devadesatych letech Cesi stale v zapade videli "neproblematicky" svet a la dvacata leta, kdezto realita, jejiz vyvoj jsme za zeleznou oponou prehledli, byla jina, komplikovanejsi, nejednoznacna. Demokracie jako zapadonemecka ci americka se uz potykaly s problemy krize hodnot, ekologickych dopadu prumyslove revoluce, nepredvidanymi dusledky socialni a imigracni politiky a konkurenci novych, cizich a tezko srozumitelnych hracu na svetovem poli (ekonomicky vzestup Asie, Islamisticke revoluce atd...).

MMM.
Bylo by na miste po teto analyze nabidnout take syntezu. Pravdou vsak je, ze nevim. Nevim, jak by mel cesky narod hledat svou identitu v Evrope 21. stoleti. Vim ale to, ze kazda identita, o kterou musime bojovat, ma daleko vetsi hodnotu.

sobota 14. listopadu 2009

Moje cesta - Carrera Panamericana

Behem planovani cesty, kterou hodlam uskutecnit posledni mesic pobytu v Jizni Americe jsem zjistil, ze itinerar prakticky kopiruje trasu Carrery Panamericany.

Tato dalnice spojuje Jizni a Severni Amerika a vede od Kanady az po Chile / Argentinu. Na pocest otevreni Mexickeho useku se zde pocala jezdit v padesatych letech slavna rallye, nedavno znovu otevrena. Mapu vidime zde:

Ja pojedu Cartagena / Medellin / Cali / Quito / Lima / Valparaiso (zhruba); tj. po teze trase. Coz mi jakozto automobilovemu nadsenci pochopitelne pusobi radost.

Vice k historii dalnice naleznete zde: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pan-American_Highway Ne celou trasu lze zdolat vozem, prave nedaleko Cartageny je dzungle mezi Kolumbii a Panamou nepropustna takze je nutne se premistit trajektem.

Vice k historii zavodu naleznete zde: http://theunlimitedclass.com/about/history-of-la-carrera-panamericana/ Neni bez zajimavosti, ze podle clanku prave z tohoto zavodu / dalnice jsou odvozena jmena Porsche Carrera a Panamera. Podivame-li se na mapu, tak vidime ze v Colombii Panamericana zacina od obce Turbo (tam se dostaneme lodi). Na pocest teto zastavky na Carrera Panamericana se volumetrickemu kompresoru rika Turbodmychadlo, ci primo Turbo.

sobota 12. září 2009

vedlejší blog

V rámci kurzu Leer la Ciudad jsme vytvořili blog aby se tam daly dávat fotky z našich exkurzí, jako byla ta na tržiště, takže tam jsou také fotky. A asi jich tam časem bude víc.

Je to na adrese www.leerlaciudad.blogspot.com

Nákup v bazaru

Anžto jsme se školou byli na místním tržišti v rámci kurzu Leer la ciudad, tak jsme se otrkali a šli jsme tam taky nakupovat. Už tam teď máme paní, co nás zná, kde jsme jedli.

Takže jsem si koupil nové trenýrky, oni mi nejdřív prodali malé, ale pak mi je vyměnily - přece jenom jak oni jsou malí, tak mne prodavačka odhadla na M, a to jsem měl obepnuté jak metrosexuál, tak jsem si to nechal vyměnit na 2XL a ty jsou tedy sakra pohodlné. Sice jsou teda do růžova, a stojí na nich psáno "sex" ale že je nikde nebudu ukazovat, tak mi to nevadí.

A plavky jsem si koupil, konečně, anžto ty co mám jsou od oleje z lodního motoru. Tak ty nové stály bratru jen 120 Kč a stojí na nich psáno Billabong.

A taky jsem si koupil sprchovo záclonu, protože stála jen 30 Kč, původně jse si ji chtěl vyrobit, ale stran času a nákladů je to tak drahé, že se to fakt nevyplatí, a tak jsem v sedmadvaceti letech pochopil hodnotu času a smysl peněžní ekonomie.

naše nová strava

Díky německému kolegovi Benjaminovi jsem objevil prima restauraci, kam teď často chodíme na jídlo. Ono je to totiž v podstatě levnější než vařit doma, a bez práce. Navíc to vedou takoví sympatičtí lidé, a vaří dobře a mají tam spoustu obrazů a tak. Jídlo bratru za 5000 pesos, sestře za 6000.

Navíc je to tady kousek. Je u toho polévka (v tomto případě netypicky chutná) a džus.

UTB den humanitni fakulty

Tak jsme tu meli takovou udalost, kde se prezentovalo vse co se dela na socialnich vedach. Tak jsem aspon na zivo videl rektorku, ktera psala clanek do skolnich novin, o tom jak se nize zminovany Galán stal inspirací pro vznik nasi univerzitni korporace, totiz ze to vzniklo jako odpoved na nedostatek verejneho vyssiho vzdelani a stim souvisejici "odliv mozku" ktere z regionu odchazely studovat do Bogoty a podobne.

Taky UTB zainvestovala mistni obchodni komora... Jo a letos nekdo ziskal prvni titul doctor honoris causa a to z politologie.

Behem akce jsme taky dostali fialove tricko s logem univerzity, coz jsem rad (za to logo, za tu barvu trochu min:) - ale darovanemu konu na zobe nekoookeee.)

neděle 23. srpna 2009

politkino - Luis Carlos Galán



Ve středu večer cestou domů, zahybaje kolem rohu, zaslechl jsem zvuk, který připomínal sovětské budovatelské písně, a vycházel z nedalekého náměstíčka. Jako slovana mne to zaujalo a šel jsem se tam tedy podívat,

abych se vzápětí ocitl na akci liberální strany. Znělka skutečně navozovala dojem, že bude mít přednášku vzkříšený Mičurin, avšak bližší ohledání ozřejmilo, že slova jsou ve Španělštině a týkají se Kolumbie. Dobře.

Náměstíčko se s oblibou propůjčuje všemožným akcím a kratochvílím, včetně skákací akce v podobě olbřímího nafukovacího kocoura jenž je zde někdy instalován dětem. Tentokrát však šlo o promítání filmu. Před vraty kostela zavěšeno plátno, na náměstíčku plastové židličky, reproduktory, a o portál opřen obraz umučeného vůdce jako Sv. Václav v Boleslavi.

Po krátké přednášce člena magistrátu jsme zhlédli dokumentární snímek - a tak jsem měl dvě hodiny Španělštiny, historie a politologie. Nicméně dlužno říci že jak snímek, tak vůdce byli zajímaví.

L.C. Galán byl - alespoň tedy dle snímku - jedním z politiků státnického ražení. Začínal jako absolvent práva a žurnalista významného deníku aby se posléze dostal do politiky, stal ministrem školství a prezidentským kandidátem. Jeho význam - a důvod toho, proč se stal takovým jako mučenníkem liberální strany - bylo jeho vytrvalé tažení proti typicky jihoamerickým nešvarům klientelismu, neprůhlednosti a korupce v politice (a notná dávka charismatu). V tom směru představoval nový prvek a na této základně také získával politickou podporu a to zejména přímo od voličů mezi něž často vycházel. Nutno si přiznat, že v takových šedesátých sedmdesátých letech politika probíhala asi poněkud ve stylu "banana republic", tj. klika bohatých a mocných rodin s vazbami na politiku a podporou armády plus masa obyvatel, kteří do toho "neměli moc oc kecat".

Na přelomu sedmdesátých a osmdesátých let byla Galánova skupina "Nový liberalismus" první, kdo začal systematicky upozornovat na nebezpečí rostoucí moci drogových kartelů a jejich infiltraci do politiky. Udajne se znascne zasadil i o to aby Escobar nemohl vstoupit do oficialnich politickych struktur. Jeho dva blizci spolupracovnici, kteri byli s tazenim proti kartelum spojeni, byli zastreleni jeste pred Galanem. Galanuv pohreb se zmenil v masovou demonstraci se statisicovou
ucasti...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luis_Carlos_Gal%C3%A1n

sobota 15. srpna 2009

Medellin - Metro

The Medellin Metro system is something both the city and its inhabitants are proud of. Even though it has no more than two lines, it is something not to be seen in South America too often. Here you can see the basic scheme of this infrastructure:(map photographed at the station - click to enlarge)
Metro (i.e. metropolitan railway) does not suggest that its corridors are under the ground. On contrary, the lines are tracted either on the surface, or on elevated estacades (in the city centre). (station near city center)
The line A follows historic route of "Ferrocaril de Antioquia" in between center area nad both end terminals. Thus, it is located on the edge of the Medellin river.
As you can see on the map, the B-line (orange) is terminated in the city center (San
The whole system was built relatively recently and is in a very good condition, it looks like new. There is one type of train serving the system.Antonio station). Furthermore, the tracks are on the elevated estacades above busy street - so it looks like a good location for some action movie (batman, you have got to stop the train!)
I have noted just one Depo, near Niquia, and technically it is possible to house all the trains there.
The infrastrucutre was built relatively recently abnd is in an excellent condition, almost like new. Ststions are modern, spatious, semi-open, built from steel and concrete. Nothing like the claustrophobic N.Y.C. underground (sorry, N.Y.C.)....and their design is quite uniform including the acessories...
The whole infrastructure is served by one type of train.(below)
which is quite spationus and light inside (below)
But perhaps the most significant feature is how METRO is identified with host of other social and cultural services and with improved quality of life as a whole. Therefore, slogans "La Cultura Metro" and "Metro Calidad de Vida" are widely promoted in uniform style by multiple chanels, including airport-like announcements and brochures like these: (below) And really - its not just about rhetorics. Besides providing safeguarded, organized and clean environment (a bit contrasting with the "barrios populares"), Metor succeeds in facilitating other then transport function, the most notable perhaps being project "Biblio Metro" where small libraries are placed at some terminal stations. There, passengers can order and later pickup books or use internet conveniently within their daily errands.(Biblio Metro ad)(small library at Niquia terminal)(and its interior with computers)
If you want more information, visit: http://www.metrodemedellin.gov.co/

Medellin v noci

A takhle to v Medellinu vypada v noci...(Parque Botero z hotelu Nutibara - NATCO - s Muzeem Antiochie)(totez namesti, je videt stanici metra Berrio)(pohled z Nutibary opacnym smerem, svisti si to tam metro)(detail vecerniho poulicniho zivota v centru)(poulicni prodavaci zeleniny tesne nez sklidili kram... kafar je tam az do ctyr rano)(naopak takto to vypadalo blizko Trainee Housu v jedne z takovych prumernych ctvrti)(a tady vidime Metro na stanici Berrio)

Medellin 1 - mesto

Mela by se asi doplnit i zprava z prvni navstevy Medellinu, tentokrat pod zaminkou navstevy NATCa (narodni konference AIESEC). Jelikoz jsem uz strucne o Medellinu psal v predchozim clanku, zde se budeme venovat podrobneji vecem, ktere onde chybely.
(Medellin, pohled od Biblioteca de Espana ve ctvrti Santo Domingo)
Urcite kouzlo teto aglomerace spociva v tom, ze se nachazi v udoli, jimz proteka stejnojmenna reka, na rozdil napr. od Prahy je toto udoli miskoviteho konvexniho tvaru. Proto mesto, ac ma cca 3 miliony obyvatel, pusobi prehlednym, kompaktnim dojmem. Smerem od centralnich oblasti, nachazejicich se v udoli, splhaji do kopcu chudsi a chudsi ctvrti, nedosahuji vsak hrebenu a tak to pusobi spise malebne nez klaustrofobne. Vyssi nadmorska vyska pad dodava prijemne klima a pruzracnejsi vzduch coz celkove vyvolava dojem zdravi.(Medellin, Zona Rosa - pohled od Itaqui)(zde pohled z metra)
Misty to vypada az idylicky, a pripomina napr. Denver ci Salt Lake City.

Mesto se dale jak uz bylo receno vyznacuje podporou kultury a vzdelani a take duslednemu PR, kde je systematicky podporovan pozitivni vztah obcanu k mestu formou ruznych akci a kampani - to by se mohli leckde inspirovat, ze.(zde napr. vidime reklamu na Medellin, umistenou v metru - kampan "Mesto pro moje deti")
V cetralni casti mesta na obou stranach od historickeho centra nalezneme radu modernich, kvalitne resenych budov a verejnych prostor. Napr. nize "Park prani" (Parque de los Deseos), kde se odehrava rada kulturnich aktivit. A ktery se nachazi v blizkosti stanice metra Universitaria ...... a v blizkosti dalsich kulturne rekreacnich center (i bez Fucika), jako je jiz zminena Botanicka zahrada, zabavni parky a "Parque Explorer",(Parque Explorer ze stanice metra Universitaria)
...ktery Vas interaktivne zasveti do taju ruznych ved a mj. disponuje kinem Imax.

Na opacne strane od centra se zase nachazi klastr modernich prostor od "Parku svetel" (kde byla Global Village), az k rece k "Parku odpocinutych nohou".
(Park svetel, vpravo knihovna)(velmi moderni interier knihovny)(podvecer blizko odpocinutych noh)(tamtez)
Ovsem nejen modernimi prostory ziv je clovek. Centrum sice trpi typickymi jihoamerickymi problemy - koncentrace podezrelych individui, tak trochu chaos, nekter budovy upadaji) a celkove se nese v duchu pocatku dvacateho stoleti - pamatky styl art deco - ale i zde najdeme zajimave veci, jako napr. oblast kolem "Boterova namesti" s muzeem umeni (viz. nize)...(Plaza Botero, v pozadi Muzeo de Antioquia)... anebo prekvapive nakupni centrum patrne z prvni poloviny dvacateho stoleti...(exterier)(interier)... anebo puvodni Hlavni Nadrazi Antiochijske drahy, ktera uz sice nefunguje, jejiz kolejiste nicmene sleduje nejdelsi trasa metra.